I was born and raised in Eugene, Oregon, living there from 1974 until 1993. Eugene is a college town, home of the University of Oregon, an ever-expanding academic and athletic juggernaut that has become one of the main financial engines of the city. Since the 60s Eugene has maintained a vibrant counter-culture, and indeed, during the Reagan and Bush I years it was one of the "last hippie bastions". Growing up there, I didn't think anything of the dreadlocked folks that would congregate downtown for the Saturday Market, a still-flourishing weekly outdoor arts and crafts fair and farmers' market. Drum circles, patchouli, cannabis, dreamcatchers, hemp clothing, freeloaders, Rastafarians, bare breasts, kids standing up to nurse (La Leche League), Artis the Spoonman, epic Grateful Dead shows at Autzen Stadium or the Country Fair, Sundance Market, Keystone Cafe, batik, anarchists, a downtown mall with a few blocks car-free, facepaint, naked toddlers, crystals, mandalas, cedar flutes, headshops....
The weather is soft for the most part, although plenty of rain keeps it emerald green most of the year. Snow generally acts properly and falls in the mountains, not regularly blanketing populated areas like so much of the rest of the nation. It's the home of rainbows, cumulo-nimbus and sunlight displays, long summer days that linger golden into early autumn. Spring lasts an eternity, flowering plants often have early false starts that color late winter's rainy gloom. It's the home of stern evergreen forests softened by deciduous display, trilliums and calypso orchids, mahonia and hellebores, ferns and blackberries, fields of grasses and poison oak, senecios and alliums. In the summer especially, there is a fatness to the land, a humming greenness of leaf stretching from the giant oaks and sweet gums to the sky, shimmering up from the damp meadows.
Eugene is in the southern Willamette Valley, one of the world's breadbaskets. Grasses are plentiful, as is corn, mint, strawberries, and more recently, grapes. I had horrible hay fever in the spring through early summer when I was growing up. I wouldn't so fondly rhapsodize over the flora in those days, but I happily grew out of most of it and can return now without suffering the endlessly itchy eyes and runny nose that I dreaded in my childhood.
That being said, I spent a lot of time outside in my young days. Eugene has always fostered a great parks system, with the jewel in the diadem being Spencer Butte, arguably the city's most instantly recognizable feature. It gracefully rises at the south end of the city and has a number of excellently maintained trail systems that take you to the top for panoramic views. Nearby is Mt. Pisgah, a sloping baldy that offers a deciduous contrast to Spencer's evergreen. These aren't mountains per se; the real peaks are the spine of the Cascades to the east, easily seen from both. I spent many many hours rambling around these lovely hills as a child, getting lost in my own thoughts, imagining worlds amongst the roots and moss, finding lizards and snakes, sighting tanagers and cedar waxwings, and yes, chasing butterflies and picking flowers for my mom.
Eugene is also graced by the Willamette river, running first west from the mountains, then bending northward through town, gathering size and strength before meeting the Columbia in Portland 110 miles north at the top of the valley. Running and biking trails follow the river through town, and it was nearly mandatory to swim in the Willamette as a kid. After the rains it can get swollen and muddy, a reminder that this valley was a flood plain before Westerners dammed the river. Much of the land is swampy and fecund; I'm pretty sure there's a limit to the height of buildings in Eugene, not only for aesthetic reasons but to keep them from slowly sinking into the valley's marshy floor.
It's no wonder that hippies found Eugene and the surrounding area to be idyllic. Ken Kesey lived a few miles away in the forest with his Furthur bus. He even came to my high school in a Tlingit totem costume and read Native tales to us. The Country Fair a few miles outside of town has for years been a great gathering of artisans, Deadheads, families, explorers, free spirits and free love. During Gulf War I people congregated in the plaza of the downtown Federal Building and kept a 24-hour drum circle going for the length of the conflict. A lot of people not familiar with Eugene might use the adjective FUNKY to describe the scene. To me, it was pretty normal, until I moved to the Midwest and realized just how different a place it is from most of the country.
The way I'm describing Eugene makes it sound like a hippie haven, which is was and is. It has many sides to it, however, as can be expected of a place big enough to house a major university while being on the edge of major farmland as well. When I was growing up in Eugene it was decidedly white, "cauliflower land" as my father puts it. In my high school of 1800 or so students, there were probably 30 black kids and very few Latinos. There were some Asians, but the supermajority of folks were white, white, lily white. Where there are white people, there are generally rednecks, and Eugene has its fair share of this scene as well, with the west side of the city being much more agricultural than cultural. Because of the university, there's also a good deal of money in town. Large areas of the surrounding hills are suburban paradises replete with 4bd/4bath manors in the firs, golf clubs in the garage, shaved ice cubes from the fridge, deep green lawns perfectly edged.
I'm familiar with all of these environments from my complicated living situation as a child (another post another day). I also got to know Eugene delivering pizza for Izzy's (pizza plus a whole lot more), from trailer parks to 70s-style apartments to doctors' pads. In all the time that I delivered I didn't get one order from any hippies....Their taste for beautiful surroundings rivals their taste for superior pizza.
Seriously, don't go to Izzy's for the pizza.